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Garage Doors

Garage Door Spring or Cable Problem? How to Tell the Difference

The door is wrong, and you'd like to know what you're dealing with before you call. It's heavy, or crooked, or both. There was a bang, or there wasn't. Is it a spring or a cable?

Garage door extension spring, pulley and lift cable mounted along the ceiling

It's a fair question, and from the floor you can usually get most of the way to an answer. You can't always get all the way, because springs and cables are two halves of the same system and one failing often takes the other with it.

Two parts, one job

The springs store the energy that lifts the door. The cables carry it to the door.

On a torsion system, one or two springs sit on a steel shaft above the opening. As the door comes down, the springs wind up. Drums at each end of the shaft hold the lift cables, which run down the sides to brackets at the bottom corners of the door. When the door opens, the springs unwind, turn the shaft, and the drums wind the cables up, lifting both corners evenly.

On an extension system, a spring runs along each horizontal track and stretches as the door closes. The cables run from the bottom corners over pulleys to the springs.

When a spring fails, the door loses its lift. When a cable fails, the door loses its lift on one side. That difference drives most of the symptoms.

Side by side

What you noticePoints to a springPoints to a cable
Loud bang from the garageVery commonPossible, usually quieter: a twang or snap
Door very heavy by handYesLess so; heavy on one side
Door sits level when closedUsuallyOften one side lower
Door rises crookedSometimes, with two springs and one brokenVery common
Gap in the coil above the doorTorsion spring brokenNo
Extension spring hanging or stretchedSpring failingNo
Cable hanging, looped or on the floorPossible: cables go slack after a spring breaksYes
Frayed or rusted cable at a bottom cornerNoCable failing
Opener lifts the door a few inches, then stopsVery commonLess common; door more often jams crooked
Door drops fast when closingYes: no counterbalanceCan drop on one side

Use the table as a lean, not a verdict. Several of these show up in both.

Signs that point to a spring

Our article on broken garage door spring signs goes deeper on these.

Signs that point to a cable

If you're already looking at a cable that's off or broken, our guide on what to do when a garage door cable breaks or comes off covers the first steps.

Where they overlap

This is why the answer is sometimes "both."

A broken torsion spring loosens the cables. When the spring lets go, the shaft stops holding the cables taut. The cables go slack and can jump off their drums. So you might see a loose cable and assume a cable failure, when the cable is only a symptom of the broken spring.

A snapped cable shocks the spring system. The sudden release of load on one side can damage the drum or throw the shaft. On extension systems, a cable failure can leave that side's spring out of position.

Worn parts wear out together. Springs and cables do the same number of cycles. If one has failed from age, the other has aged the same amount.

That's why a proper inspection looks at both, whichever one you called about.

Why a door opens crooked

A crooked door is the symptom that causes the most confusion, so it's worth going through the causes one at a time. One side rises faster, or one side stays on the floor while the other lifts.

A loose or slipped cable

The most common cause. A cable that has slackened or come partly off its drum lets that side lag. The door may still move, but it's lifting unevenly.

A broken cable

With one cable gone, that side isn't lifted at all. The door tilts hard, often lifting a foot or more on one side while the other stays down, and it can jam in the tracks.

A damaged or slipped drum

If a drum is cracked or has moved on the shaft, its cable winds differently from the other side. The door rises unevenly even though both cables are intact.

One of two springs broken

On a two-spring torsion system, one spring can break while the other keeps working. The door is heavy and may lift unevenly. On an extension system, one side's spring breaking or stretching leaves that side under-lifted.

A track or roller problem

A bent track, a seized roller, or a roller out of the track can hold one side back while the springs and cables are fine. You'll often see the problem at a specific point in the door's travel. Ice or debris in one track can do the same.

If the rollers have climbed out of the track, that's off-track repair as well as fixing whatever caused it.

What happens if you keep using the opener

With a spring broken, the opener tries to lift a door that's now far too heavy. It strains, strips its drive gear, bends the door arm, or pulls the arm's bracket out of the top section. If the door does get partway up, it has little holding it there.

With a cable gone, the opener pulls a door that's lifting on one side only. The door twists, the rollers climb out of the tracks, and the sections crease. The remaining cable carries everything.

Either way, the damage grows each time you press the button. If the door is heavy or crooked, stop using it, unplug the opener if you can do that without standing under the door, and keep people and cars clear. If the door is open, don't pull the red release cord, because the opener may be what's holding it up.

Sounds, and what they tell you

Why this isn't a do-it-yourself fix

Both parts are under the full tension of the spring system. The door association DASMA says frayed or worn cables should be replaced only by a trained technician because of the spring tension involved. It also says the bottom brackets the cables attach to are under extreme tension and should be adjusted or loosened only by a technician. Many manufacturers fit tamper-resistant brackets for that reason.

Looking is safe. Touching the springs, drums, cables or bottom brackets isn't.

What a technician checks

When we're called for either problem, we look at the whole lift system:

  1. Both springs, for breaks, gaps, stretch and matching size.
  2. Both cables, end to end, for fraying, rust and how they sit on the drums or pulleys.
  3. The drums and shaft, for cracks, slipping and alignment.
  4. The bottom brackets, for rust and secure mounting.
  5. The tracks and rollers, for bends, binding and wear.
  6. The door's balance by hand, once the system is repaired.
  7. The opener's force and reversing function.

The repair is then whatever the inspection finds. That might be spring replacement, cable repair, or both.

Common questions

Can a cable break without the spring breaking?

Yes. Cables fail from rust and fraying at the bottom bracket, or from the door landing on something and the cable slipping. The spring may be fine.

If the spring broke, do the cables need replacing?

Not always. If the cables stayed on their drums and aren't frayed, they can often be reset. If they came off, kinked or show wear, replacing them during the spring job is sensible, since the tension is already off.

My door is crooked but I can't see anything wrong. What now?

Stop using it and send a photo of the whole door, both bottom corners and the area above the door. Sometimes the cause is a slipped drum or a track problem that's hard to spot from the floor.

Which is more dangerous?

Both. A broken spring leaves a heavy door with no counterbalance. A broken cable leaves a door that can shift or jam unexpectedly. Treat either one as a reason to stop.

Get it diagnosed

If the door is heavy, crooked, or has a loose cable, stop operating it until the system is inspected. Send us photos of the springs and both bottom corners and we'll tell you what we see. Call 613-265-3667, or start with everyday garage door repair.

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